18 May 2013

Emeralds! May's Birthstone

Hello everyone!

I have been getting ready to go on vacation in a couple of weeks, so please bear with me. I am slightly frazzled at the moment. That being said, I have a new, and hopefully informative post for you all. I will be posting these, theoretically, at the first of each month since they are going to be about birthstones. I will possibly continue the posts afterwards with information about other gemstones, but for now, just gemstones. That way you will all get at least one post a month. Hope you all enjoy them! It gives me a way to use the stuff that I have learned in my classes and at work.

So, this year’s big colour is emerald green. Well, the emerald is May’s birthstone. Emeralds are a type of beryl which puts them in the same mineral class as March’s birthstone, Aquamarine, and the beautiful pale pink Morganite stone. It is very pretty and can be found in numerous jewelry settings. You can get find them set in all colours of gold. However, most jewellers will tell you that the most common and beautiful setting for an emerald is in yellow gold. In terms of the cut, most emeralds are cut in what is called and emerald cut. They are available in other cuts, but the emerald cut brings out the beauty of the emerald and is a good stable cut for the stone.

A question that I get asked a lot is where do emeralds come from? Well, that depends on what time period you are living in. If you were to live in ancient times you would most likely get your emeralds from places like Austria, Egypt, and India. However, in today’s world you can find emeralds just about anywhere if you know where and how to look for them. Most emeralds come from Colombia and Zambia though. Colombia has the most emeralds, however those that are mined are softer than those mined in Zambia.

Speaking of emerald softness, all emeralds have inclusions in them. When buying emeralds be wary of buying one that has none. Chances are, if it has no inclusions it is either a synthetic emerald or an emerald green cubic zirconia. A synthetic emerald is grown in a lab. Really, there is nothing wrong with lab grown emeralds apart from they are not brought out of a lab. That being said. If a jeweller tells you that the emerald has no inclusions always ask! I cannot stress this enough. The store that I work for has both kinds and all of us know which is which. If in doubt of it, ask. Most jewellers will have no qualms about telling you anything and everything you want to know about the stone you are interested in. If they do not want to tell you, you may be better off buying somewhere else. Also, do emeralds are one of the stones that you do not want to buy online. Not only do you run the chance of not getting a real emerald, but the shipping may damage the already fragile stone. You have no idea how many people we get coming into the store asking us to replace cracked emeralds.

What colours do emeralds come in exactly? While most emeralds are a beautiful medium green, it is not uncommon to find some that are little more blue or a little more yellow. They are still emerald, but it is the medium green that people want. If you get too blue you end up with different species of beryl such as aquamarine and maxie. If you go to yellow you end up with Golden beryl and heliodor. So, what makes an emerald green as opposed to another colour of beryl? Emeralds contain small amounts of vanadium or chromium. Chromium being the most common. Yes, chromium is the chemical that was causing all those problems if you have seen the film “Erin Brockovich” or know anything about the case that Erin Brockovich worked on in real life. That being said, the type of chromium in that case was hexavalent chromium and that is NOT found in emeralds. Hexavalent chromium is chromium in the sixth state of oxidization. Unless you are going to be ingesting large amounts of emeralds you will be fine wearing it. It will not harm you to wear an emerald.

Emeralds, as mentioned above, have inclusions in them. Most emeralds have a lot of inclusions in them. As such, most emeralds look more opaque than clear. However, you can buy very clear emeralds if you want to dish out that kind of money. The clearer the emerald, the more money it is. The good news is that most lapidarists will oil the emeralds to give it a more clear look to it. The most common type of oil used is cedar oil. You can ask your local jeweller about the oiling of emeralds if you so wish. Most jewellers will be able to tell you if the emerald you are wanting to purchase has been oiled or not. However, not all emeralds are oiled. Some may be treated with synthetic oils. In the US the FTC requires that when an emerald is sold the person buying it must know about it. There is a downside to this though. A company may buy and emerald to set in a piece of jewellery and know that the emerald has been oiled. When that company goes to sell to your local jeweller the salesperson may not  know if that emerald has been oiled when they are selling to your local jeweller. So, if you jeweller tells you that they are not sure if the emerald was oiled during its time at the lapidary they very well may be telling the truth. Nonetheless, most emeralds are in fact oiled and as a good rule of thumb it is safe to assume that the emerald you are interest in and all other emeralds in your local jewellery store are in fact oiled.

Another question that I get asked frequently is how does one take care of an emerald. Since emeralds are so fragile with all of their inclusion it is better to have your emerald set in a piece of jewellery that does not get banged around. Pendants, brooches, earrings, and hair pins are all good choices. Rings and bracelets tend to take more abuse since people use their hands for various things throughout the day. So, if you want a ring or bracelet you may consider purchasing a lab created emerald instead as they hold up better since they do not have very many, if any inclusions and are harder than mined emeralds. Do not put them in harsh chemicals. Always take them off before working with chemicals of any kind just to be on the safe side. If you wish to clean them, use water to gently rinse them off and then dry them with a soft cloth. It is better to take your emeralds to the jeweller to have them cleaned professionally. Most jewellers do not charge for cleaning. If they do it is usually not that much. Also, just because your emerald has been oiled at the lapidary does not mean that it needs to be oiled again. If your jeweller thinks it needs it they will tell you. In which case, if your jeweller is a trained lapidarist they will do it themselves, or they will have a lapidarists come in to do it. On occasion, they will either take it to the lapidarist or send it to them. As with most jewellery care, if in doubt ask your local jeweller.

I hope this has helped you and that you have found it interesting! Until next time!

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